Thursday, June 19, 2014
nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2
By William Phips
Picking up right where we left off…
Shoes
And it is shoes. Not boots.
As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.
In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.
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nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2

By William Phips

Picking up right where we left off…

Shoes

And it is shoes. Not boots.

As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.

In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.

Read More

My (virtual) chat with maomao.

nomanwalksalone:

THE TAO OF MAOMAO

by William Phips

I recently sat down with internet style icon maomao1980 at his private jet hanger to discuss menswear.  No, not really.  But I still like to imagine that he responded to my questions from a Gulfstream.

Mao was born in Beijing, raised in the US  and now finds himself based again in Beijing.  Yet somehow he managed to avoid the mediocrity of dress associated with both places.  

His style was therefore, of necessity, self-taught:

No one really taught me how to dress, there are no great stories of a stylish father and hand-me-down vintage ties and cufflinks. My parents’ China was a very simple China. Average citizens went about their government-assigned roles and lived quietly and happily, unconcerned with the materialism and social evolution that occupied the contemporary western world. My generation, the post 80’s or so-called “lost” generation was born to face a much different world but our parents and teachers never taught us the skills or equipped us the tools to deal with a brand new China. When my father is required to wear a tie, guess who helps him with the knot?

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Thursday, June 12, 2014
nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2
By William Phips
Picking up right where we left off…
Shoes
And it is shoes. Not boots.
As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.
In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2

By William Phips

Picking up right where we left off…

Shoes

And it is shoes. Not boots.

As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.

In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.

Read More

Friday, June 6, 2014

nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 1

by William Phips

Let’s talk about you for a minute— you like clothes.  After all, you’re reading the words underneath a photo on a menswear blog.  There are things you really like to wear.  This isn’t about those things.  This is about what you’re supposed to wear.

This is Conservative Business Dress.

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Thursday, May 22, 2014

I do love me some Fresco

nomanwalksalone:

FRESCO, LOVELY FRESCO
by William Phips
Minnis Fresco has become a cult object in one dark corner of the internet and with good reason- it’s a hard-wearing cloth with a bit of character. And while many of the few remaining cloth merchants also sell a high-twist, open-weave cloth, Minnis’ remains the standard. 
Like most suitings, Fresco is made from worsted wool, which is to say wool that has been combed and combed again to remove shorter fibers and to ensure that the remaining longer fibers run parallel. As a result, worsted yarns are strong, uniform and can be tightly spun. These individual yarns are generally spun clockwise or, in weaving parlance, in the S-direction. 
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

FRESCO, LOVELY FRESCO

by William Phips

Minnis Fresco has become a cult object in one dark corner of the internet and with good reason- it’s a hard-wearing cloth with a bit of character. And while many of the few remaining cloth merchants also sell a high-twist, open-weave cloth, Minnis’ remains the standard. 

Like most suitings, Fresco is made from worsted wool, which is to say wool that has been combed and combed again to remove shorter fibers and to ensure that the remaining longer fibers run parallel. As a result, worsted yarns are strong, uniform and can be tightly spun. These individual yarns are generally spun clockwise or, in weaving parlance, in the S-direction. 

Read More

Friday, May 9, 2014
nomanwalksalone:

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DRAPE, PART 2
by William Phips
In Part 1, I more or less promised you some controversy and have failed to delivered.  
I’m a drapist myself but reasonable minds do differ. For one, because a draped coat will always look at least a bit slouchy, maybe even a little rumpled. And that’s if everything is done well. 
And it’s not hard to see how this can all go terribly wrong. Push Scholte’s tricks a little further and you have the stereotypical 40s gangster - garishly chalkstriped, swimming in cloth, with shoulders like a linebacker.  Keep on going and you have a full-on zoot suit. 
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DRAPE, PART 2

by William Phips

In Part 1, I more or less promised you some controversy and have failed to delivered.  

I’m a drapist myself but reasonable minds do differ. For one, because a draped coat will always look at least a bit slouchy, maybe even a little rumpled. And that’s if everything is done well. 

And it’s not hard to see how this can all go terribly wrong. Push Scholte’s tricks a little further and you have the stereotypical 40s gangster - garishly chalkstriped, swimming in cloth, with shoulders like a linebacker.  Keep on going and you have a full-on zoot suit. 

Read More

nomanwalksalone:

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DRAPE, PART 1

by William Phips

Wars have been fought with less fervor than that with which I’ve seen drape debated. While that admittedly says more about those particular debaters, there’s still no denying it’s a polarizing style.

The story that’s survived (and it’s illustrative whether or not it’s entirely true) is that the drape cut was developed by Frederick Scholte, a Dutch transplant working on Saville Row. Accordingly to this telling, popularized by the dean of menswear historians Bruce Boyer, the idea came to Scholte while making coats for the King’s Guard.

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Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Drakes pindot

Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Friday, February 21, 2014
nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 2
by William Phips
Read part 1 here.
My very recent détente with the # briefly lulled me into forgetting that I was obviously out of place. But my acute lack of both beard and bracelets soon reminded me. Luckily I didn’t have long to wallow in my awkwardness because my attention turned to taking notes and trying to take even a single useable photo. The dim lighting, the models’ speedwalker pace and my own ineptitude with a camera, however, rendered every image just a confused blur. 
And speaking of confused blurs, before I realized it, the show was over. 
I’ve often heard people - not unjustifiably - carp about fashion’s egregious lack of subtlety. And I’ve indulged in my fair share of “get off my lawn”-ing in that regard. But there is a reason for that conspicuous obviousness.  
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nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 2

by William Phips

Read part 1 here.

My very recent détente with the # briefly lulled me into forgetting that I was obviously out of place. But my acute lack of both beard and bracelets soon reminded me. Luckily I didn’t have long to wallow in my awkwardness because my attention turned to taking notes and trying to take even a single useable photo. The dim lighting, the models’ speedwalker pace and my own ineptitude with a camera, however, rendered every image just a confused blur. 

And speaking of confused blurs, before I realized it, the show was over. 

I’ve often heard people - not unjustifiably - carp about fashion’s egregious lack of subtlety. And I’ve indulged in my fair share of “get off my lawn”-ing in that regard. But there is a reason for that conspicuous obviousness.  

Read More

Thursday, February 20, 2014
nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 1
by William Phips
It’s not that I’m old;  I’m just really old school.  Consequently I was pretty sure that fashion shows were nothing more than the insufferable in full pursuit of the unwearable, the whole exercise made tolerable only through the grace of a few Miranda Kerrs. 
And so carrying my invitation, preconceptions and Greg’s injunction to ‘just keep an open mind’ I set off to actually see Oliver Spencer’s F/W 2014 show in person.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 1

by William Phips

It’s not that I’m old;  I’m just really old school.  Consequently I was pretty sure that fashion shows were nothing more than the insufferable in full pursuit of the unwearable, the whole exercise made tolerable only through the grace of a few Miranda Kerrs. 

And so carrying my invitation, preconceptions and Greg’s injunction to ‘just keep an open mind’ I set off to actually see Oliver Spencer’s F/W 2014 show in person.

Read More

Monday, January 13, 2014
nomanwalksalone:


HOW PANTS SHOULD FIT
by William Phips
A handmade jacket is undoubtedly the highest expression of the tailor’s art.  Nothing else a man wears requires the skill and care that go into cutting, sewing and shaping a coat.  So it’s not surprising that they get the most attention.
But assuming your interest in menswear isn’t limited to collecting nice things (a condition that I realize isn’t always met) but also extends to a desire to look good, you need to pay attention to how your trousers fit as well.
A lot of looking good in tailored clothing comes down to sidestepping a few well-worn pitfalls.  And trousers are one of the most common obstacles on the road to steez.  Luckily, they’re also one of the easiest things to get right – provided you know what you’re looking for.
Waist:   Yes, pants are sold by waist size but it’s a red herring.  Focus on how everything else fits and then simply have the waist altered.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

HOW PANTS SHOULD FIT

by William Phips

A handmade jacket is undoubtedly the highest expression of the tailor’s art.  Nothing else a man wears requires the skill and care that go into cutting, sewing and shaping a coat.  So it’s not surprising that they get the most attention.

But assuming your interest in menswear isn’t limited to collecting nice things (a condition that I realize isn’t always met) but also extends to a desire to look good, you need to pay attention to how your trousers fit as well.

A lot of looking good in tailored clothing comes down to sidestepping a few well-worn pitfalls.  And trousers are one of the most common obstacles on the road to steez.  Luckily, they’re also one of the easiest things to get right – provided you know what you’re looking for.

Waist:   Yes, pants are sold by waist size but it’s a red herring.  Focus on how everything else fits and then simply have the waist altered.

Read More

Wednesday, January 1, 2014
London from the Thames - 2

London from the Thames - 2