No School Like The Old School

Jun 19

nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2
By William Phips
Picking up right where we left off…
Shoes
And it is shoes. Not boots.
As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.
In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2

By William Phips

Picking up right where we left off…

Shoes

And it is shoes. Not boots.

As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.

In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.

Read More

[video]

Jun 12

[video]

nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2
By William Phips
Picking up right where we left off…
Shoes
And it is shoes. Not boots.
As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.
In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

CONSERVATIVE BUSINESS DRESS - CHAPTER 2

By William Phips

Picking up right where we left off…

Shoes

And it is shoes. Not boots.

As long as your shoes are dark (and, just in case, I mean dark black, brown or burgundy) and the last and styling are relatively conservative, you should be set.

In London, however, a businessman would be ashamed to do something so undignified as wear well-polished dark brown shoes. Even people who don’t care about these things care enough to wag their finger and recite the old ‘no brown in town’ dictum. Bright red socks and hot pink striped shirts are, however, A-okay.

Read More

Jun 06

[video]

May 22

[video]

nomanwalksalone:

FRESCO, LOVELY FRESCO
by William Phips
Minnis Fresco has become a cult object in one dark corner of the internet and with good reason- it’s a hard-wearing cloth with a bit of character. And while many of the few remaining cloth merchants also sell a high-twist, open-weave cloth, Minnis’ remains the standard. 
Like most suitings, Fresco is made from worsted wool, which is to say wool that has been combed and combed again to remove shorter fibers and to ensure that the remaining longer fibers run parallel. As a result, worsted yarns are strong, uniform and can be tightly spun. These individual yarns are generally spun clockwise or, in weaving parlance, in the S-direction. 
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

FRESCO, LOVELY FRESCO

by William Phips

Minnis Fresco has become a cult object in one dark corner of the internet and with good reason- it’s a hard-wearing cloth with a bit of character. And while many of the few remaining cloth merchants also sell a high-twist, open-weave cloth, Minnis’ remains the standard. 

Like most suitings, Fresco is made from worsted wool, which is to say wool that has been combed and combed again to remove shorter fibers and to ensure that the remaining longer fibers run parallel. As a result, worsted yarns are strong, uniform and can be tightly spun. These individual yarns are generally spun clockwise or, in weaving parlance, in the S-direction. 

Read More

May 09

nomanwalksalone:

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DRAPE, PART 2
by William Phips
In Part 1, I more or less promised you some controversy and have failed to delivered.  
I’m a drapist myself but reasonable minds do differ. For one, because a draped coat will always look at least a bit slouchy, maybe even a little rumpled. And that’s if everything is done well. 
And it’s not hard to see how this can all go terribly wrong. Push Scholte’s tricks a little further and you have the stereotypical 40s gangster - garishly chalkstriped, swimming in cloth, with shoulders like a linebacker.  Keep on going and you have a full-on zoot suit. 
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

A BRIEF HISTORY OF DRAPE, PART 2

by William Phips

In Part 1, I more or less promised you some controversy and have failed to delivered.  

I’m a drapist myself but reasonable minds do differ. For one, because a draped coat will always look at least a bit slouchy, maybe even a little rumpled. And that’s if everything is done well. 

And it’s not hard to see how this can all go terribly wrong. Push Scholte’s tricks a little further and you have the stereotypical 40s gangster - garishly chalkstriped, swimming in cloth, with shoulders like a linebacker.  Keep on going and you have a full-on zoot suit. 

Read More

[video]

Apr 30

[video]

Apr 29

Feb 21

nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 2
by William Phips
Read part 1 here.
My very recent détente with the # briefly lulled me into forgetting that I was obviously out of place. But my acute lack of both beard and bracelets soon reminded me. Luckily I didn’t have long to wallow in my awkwardness because my attention turned to taking notes and trying to take even a single useable photo. The dim lighting, the models’ speedwalker pace and my own ineptitude with a camera, however, rendered every image just a confused blur. 
And speaking of confused blurs, before I realized it, the show was over. 
I’ve often heard people - not unjustifiably - carp about fashion’s egregious lack of subtlety. And I’ve indulged in my fair share of “get off my lawn”-ing in that regard. But there is a reason for that conspicuous obviousness.  
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 2

by William Phips

Read part 1 here.

My very recent détente with the # briefly lulled me into forgetting that I was obviously out of place. But my acute lack of both beard and bracelets soon reminded me. Luckily I didn’t have long to wallow in my awkwardness because my attention turned to taking notes and trying to take even a single useable photo. The dim lighting, the models’ speedwalker pace and my own ineptitude with a camera, however, rendered every image just a confused blur. 

And speaking of confused blurs, before I realized it, the show was over. 

I’ve often heard people - not unjustifiably - carp about fashion’s egregious lack of subtlety. And I’ve indulged in my fair share of “get off my lawn”-ing in that regard. But there is a reason for that conspicuous obviousness.  

Read More

Feb 20

nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 1
by William Phips
It’s not that I’m old;  I’m just really old school.  Consequently I was pretty sure that fashion shows were nothing more than the insufferable in full pursuit of the unwearable, the whole exercise made tolerable only through the grace of a few Miranda Kerrs. 
And so carrying my invitation, preconceptions and Greg’s injunction to ‘just keep an open mind’ I set off to actually see Oliver Spencer’s F/W 2014 show in person.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

MENSWEAR: HOW I LEARNED TO STOP WORRYING AND LOVE TOLERATE UNDERSTAND THE #: PART 1

by William Phips

It’s not that I’m old;  I’m just really old school.  Consequently I was pretty sure that fashion shows were nothing more than the insufferable in full pursuit of the unwearable, the whole exercise made tolerable only through the grace of a few Miranda Kerrs. 

And so carrying my invitation, preconceptions and Greg’s injunction to ‘just keep an open mind’ I set off to actually see Oliver Spencer’s F/W 2014 show in person.

Read More

Jan 13

nomanwalksalone:


HOW PANTS SHOULD FIT
by William Phips
A handmade jacket is undoubtedly the highest expression of the tailor’s art.  Nothing else a man wears requires the skill and care that go into cutting, sewing and shaping a coat.  So it’s not surprising that they get the most attention.
But assuming your interest in menswear isn’t limited to collecting nice things (a condition that I realize isn’t always met) but also extends to a desire to look good, you need to pay attention to how your trousers fit as well.
A lot of looking good in tailored clothing comes down to sidestepping a few well-worn pitfalls.  And trousers are one of the most common obstacles on the road to steez.  Luckily, they’re also one of the easiest things to get right – provided you know what you’re looking for.
Waist:   Yes, pants are sold by waist size but it’s a red herring.  Focus on how everything else fits and then simply have the waist altered.
Read More

nomanwalksalone:

HOW PANTS SHOULD FIT

by William Phips

A handmade jacket is undoubtedly the highest expression of the tailor’s art.  Nothing else a man wears requires the skill and care that go into cutting, sewing and shaping a coat.  So it’s not surprising that they get the most attention.

But assuming your interest in menswear isn’t limited to collecting nice things (a condition that I realize isn’t always met) but also extends to a desire to look good, you need to pay attention to how your trousers fit as well.

A lot of looking good in tailored clothing comes down to sidestepping a few well-worn pitfalls.  And trousers are one of the most common obstacles on the road to steez.  Luckily, they’re also one of the easiest things to get right – provided you know what you’re looking for.

Waist:   Yes, pants are sold by waist size but it’s a red herring.  Focus on how everything else fits and then simply have the waist altered.

Read More

Jan 01

London from the Thames - 2

London from the Thames - 2